What’s Welsh about Penrhyn Castle?

Bangor University Undergraduate Internship Project

In 2020, history student Emma Winstanley undertook a research internship with ISWE and the National Trust, where she was asked to respond to the question, ‘What’s Welsh about Penrhyn Castle?’

This focus was informed by a sense that Penrhyn Castle is often viewed as representing a cultural divide in the history and landscape of Wales, between Welsh and English, with the Castle and its owners habitually projected as enclaves and agents of ‘anglicisation’ in the countryside of Gwynedd.  In response to this context, Emma was asked to explore the Castle and its collections for examples of Welshness.  She identified several manifestations of Welsh culture, language and identity, but decided for focus in a large, framed image which hangs near the principal public entrance to Penrhyn Castle.

The image is of Lord Penrhyn together with the Prince of Wales and other members of the royal family posing outside of Penrhyn Castle. The Prince was visiting north Wales to attend the 1894 Eisteddfod at Caernarfon and evidence suggests that the royals were guests of Lord Penrhyn’s at Penrhyn Castle.  During the nineteenth century the Eisteddfod was invested as an important pillar of Welsh identity and culture.  Therefore, focusing on the links between the occasion and the Penrhyn estate seemed an appropriate theme to begin investigating the site’s Welshness.

Illustration of a family group with a model of Penrhyn Castle in front of them

Emma used newspaper articles to contextualise the visit and its commemoration in the image.  Both English language and Welsh language papers described the enthusiasm and great pleasure from the thousands who lined the streets from Bangor to Caernarfon upon the Prince’s journey from Penrhyn Castle to the Eisteddfod festival in 1894.  The reports are thorough, recording excitedly each detail of the Prince’s journey from the time the royal carriage left Penrhyn Castle up until the festival itself.  Reports tell of flowers and flags lining the streets from Caernarfon to Bangor along with people of all generations and class divisions, from school children to farmers, coming out to catch a glimpse of the Prince of Wales. The extent of enthusiasm and ceremony described suggests that the greater part of the local populace was pleased with the attendance of the Prince. This supports the idea that the title of ‘Prince of Wales’ was understood as a marker of Welsh identity in nineteenth-century Wales. 

Earlier newspaper articles dating from 1890 suggest disagreements in anticipation of the Bangor Eisteddfod that year. Newspapers report that the royal family did not attend the Eisteddfod in 1890 and blame was put upon Lord Penrhyn who was the President of the Eisteddfod that year. A Welsh language article in Y Werin from September 1890 portrays Lord Penrhyn in an unfavourable light; the author states ‘his lordship is responsible because the Prince of Wales and his son Duke of Clarence did not honour the Eisteddfod with their presence and refers to Lord Penrhyn as laughable, childish and unworthy of a gentleman of his position’.  This article was discovered already translated into English and reveals that a man from Porthmadog was employed to translate Welsh articles for the Lord Penrhyn in order to keep him up to date with the Welsh press. The author of the article mockingly addresses the translator, telling him to ‘inform his lordship that Bangor Eisteddfod has managed to do without him’.

Lord Penrhyn was clearly aware of the importance attached to the attendance of the Prince of Wales, and of the affect the 1890 Eisteddfod controversy had on public opinion. When he was appointed president of the Eisteddfod for a second time in 1894, he addressed the crowds at the festival with a long and thought-out speech which highlighted the Prince’s attendance and made references to ancient Welsh history.  Addressing the crowds in English, the speech expresses the loyalty of Welshmen to the Crown and conveys the significance and joy of the title ‘Prince of Wales’.  His address also paid much attention to a Welsh love of poetry and music and claims that the love for the musical arts was ‘installed during ancient times’. 

While visiting north Wales for the Eisteddfod, the royal family also partook in a visit to Penrhyn Quarry in Bethesda, where reports tell of a ‘hearty welcome’ from the workmen.  Much like reports of his attendance at the Eisteddfod, the Prince’s journey and visit to Penrhyn Quarry was presented in detail.  Thousands of people, including workmen and their families, had gathered to welcome the visiting royals.  Descriptions also tell of the wives and children of the quarrymen singing ‘two old hymns, ‘‘The Land of Our Fathers’’ and the national anthem’.  It is clear from reports that those at the quarry had been eagerly awaiting the visit with papers reporting that blasting operations were left for three days in order to put on a show for the Prince of Wales as well as new roads constructed around the area.  Despite most reports presenting a positive and welcoming response to the royal visit, a small statement at the end of one report reads ‘There is no truth (our correspondent says) in the report circulated yesterday to the effect that a man had been arrested at Bangor for an attempt to assault the prince’.  This is the only negative reaction located in relation to the Prince’s visit.

More controversy concerning Lord Penrhyn and the Eisteddfod presented itself in 1902. The 1902 Eisteddfod took place in Bangor and occurred in the midst of the Penrhyn quarry strikes which took place between 1900-1903. Newspapers from the time report that Lord Penrhyn decided to step down as President of the 1902 Eisteddfod; here we see varying attitudes to the news. The London Kelt reported the news in Welsh, describing the resignation of Lord Penrhyn as ‘a great joy for everyone’ and goes on further to say that his lordship would have received an ‘unfavourable reception’ had he attended.  The article also states that a large number of Penrhyn quarrymen and their families had already stated that they would not attend Bangor Eisteddfod in protest. This is confirmed in another newspaper, the Evening Express, reporting in English, that quarrymen will ‘boycott’ the festival.

Emma concluded that ‘if we consider the notion that Welsh identity has developed and transformed over time, we become aware of the many Welsh links within and surrounding Penrhyn Castle’.  This case study reveals a continuing link between Penrhyn Castle and the Eisteddfod tradition into the twentieth century, showing that the Lord Penrhyn played an active role, or at least recognised the importance of Welsh traditions, history and culture.  The royal visit also shows that the monarchy generally and title of ‘Prince of Wales’ in particular was held in high esteem and seen as a marker of Welsh identity. 

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